Spain: The red “Wine-paths” in La Rioja

January 23, 2013

Countless vineyards form a huge red heart beneath the sun in northern Spain

by Kon Hans

I admire the red color, the deep red, which flirts with the color of a ruby, such as when we lift up a glass of red wine letting the light to reveal to us this magical primeval color of the fruits of the land. There is a unique place, in northern Spain, between the mountains, that pays tribute to this color: with golden-red meadows and medieval monasteries, with a bright blue sky that embraces countless vineyards, forming a huge red heart pulsing beneath the sun; it is the birthplace of the excellent Spanish wine, La Rioja.

The Autonomous Community of La Rioja, is a region known even from Roman times for its favorable climate and its rich soil, suitable for growing all kinds of vegetables and various grape types that produce some of the best wines in the world. The entire region's economy is based mainly on wine production, which, in addition to the strong State subsidies and European funds, thrives on the authentic passion and pride of the locals for their land and its products. A myriad vineyards, lined up with blameless order and organization like Roman legions wait for the collectors, who come from all corners of Spain and the rest of the world not only for an extra payday, but also for a unique experience.

Enotourism

Even biggest in numbers, though, are the visitors and the “enotourists” since the State invests very efficiently a part of its revenue from agricultural and wine production in the ever developing “enotourism”. As witnesses to this investment stand huge, ultramodern and designed by well-known architects wineries, the majority of which you can visit, as part of “wine-routes” organized across the region, with specialized guides, providing a thorough and often interactive information on all stages of wine production and of course with the essential wine tasting at the end.

Some distinct examples are the Ysios Winery with the particular architecture of Calatrava, the historic and uncommon winery and hotel Marques de Riscal, designed by the renowned architect Frank Jerry, the futuristic wineries Darien and Antion and, finally, the impressive Cune, shaped as a giant barrel, of the French architect Mazieres. Your tour, however, amongst the endless vineyards and wineries will be incomplete if you don't visit one of the most important museums of wine in the world, the "Museum of the Wine Culture -Dinastia Vivanco" in the village of Briones. There, in an area of 9,000 square meters, in five extensive display rooms that include a huge underground cellar, and an external garden with all possible grape varieties from around the world, the "Garden of Bacchus", all the fascinating wealth of the ancient art of wine production is thoroughly displayed.

Logroño, the cosmopolitan capital

The capital of La Rioja is the seductive Logroño, on the banks of the river of Ebro, a location in the famousWay of St. James, widely known as "El Camino de Santiago", which contributed significantly to the town’s tourist and commercial development since even the middle ages, whereas, in the historic centre, the myriad footsteps of pilgrims still resonate through the mists of time, as they passed by towards the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Nowadays, the tired pilgrims are replaced by cheerful tourists and visitors, as the historic centre is presently an impressive recreation zone, where the medieval buildings serve as an idyllic background for you to enjoy a “Copa de vino tinto” or “Blanco” (a glass of red or white wine) of excellent quality served with “tapas” of unique inspiration in one of the dozens of small bars and taverns, and with good prices. You should walk around in this rich and cosmopolitan city, with big evergreen parks and stone bridges reflected in the river, visit the beautiful Cathedral with the twin towers, and indulge in the authentic “riojana” gastronomy.

Besides Logroño, there are dozens of other villages and small towns in the area that is highly recommended to visit. Especially one of them, the magical Laguardia, on the border with the Basque country, is built on a hill, like a medieval Island, where all the vast sea of meadows spreads around you in all its glory, a nature´s impressionist painting with green and ocher, perforated by the fleeting shadows of travelling clouds. There you will lose yourself in the stone alleys and admire the medieval walls, the Tower of the Plaza Mayor, with the “clock dancers” and of course the Church Santa Maria de los Reyes of a unique beauty with amazing colors, which are kept almost intact. Moreover, you will find out that it is a suitable place for shopping whereas not only it produces wines of very high quality, biological and certified, but also a myriad of other local products are available such as the famed canned asparagus, various “wine-cheeses”, red peppers, various cooked pork meats, such as "chorizo", legumes and much, much more.

Finally, you need to make a mandatory stop at the village of San Vicente de la Sonsiera, where besides the scenic location, magnificent views and the beautiful alleys you will find a high gastronomy award-winning restaurant, the “Casa Tony”, featuring the local “riojana” cuisine in close relation with the delicious wine-culture that give birth to inspired culinary creations – do not forget to try the "orejas de cerdo" (pig ears!) with a nice red "Rioja" - for a marvelous farewell.